All body styles have the same base price, $4200 for solid tops and $4600 for doubletops. Tailpiece guitars are always doubletops. The possible variations in wood selection and trim details are many more than can be listed and exactly priced here. If you have a specific request or vision for your guitar, we will take plenty of time to talk about possibilities. Many dimensions such as scales, neck width, string spacing, number of frets at body junction, and neck profile can be customized to your requirements for no extra charge.
An order is placed by sending a deposit of $800. This will put you on the waiting list, and we will begin to discuss your dream guitar. Shortly before I am ready to begin construction, I request another payment, to bring the total paid up to ⅓ of the cost of the guitar. When the woodwork is nearing completion I will request another third, and then the balance is due at the time of shipping.
STANDARD FEATURES:
Body wood: I include many types of reasonably priced tonewoods in the standard pricing. In addition to East Indian Rosewood and mahogany, you also have a choice of some nice grades of cocobolo, walnut, koa, bubinga, padauk, higuerilla and others, depending on what I have in stock. Some people spend a tremendous amount of time trying to decide which tonewoods to order. In my opinion it is easiest to separate the body woods into 3 groups, though keep in mind that the construction of the guitar has a bigger affect on the acoustics than the wood choice:
• Very resonant - (lots of overtones, good sustain, more complex note quality) - includes most rosewoods, macassar ebony, bloodwood, padauk, hormigo
• Less resonant - (fewer overtones, less sustain with slightly crisper notes) - mahogany, higuerilla, black walnut, koa
• Least resonant (least overtones, least sustain) - claro walnut, maple, myrtle
Soundboard: My standard tonewood is lutz/kermodie spruce, a natural hybrid from British Columbia, that I believe to be one of the best top woods in the world. Western Red cedar or redwood are also available as standard. Doubletops usually have the top and/or bottom skin made from spruce or cedar, with cedar and nomex honeycomb in the core. I select for acoustic quality first and appearance second, meaning that I often use "interesting" wood with streaks of color or wavering grain. You are free to specify a preference for a more traditional "clean" grain pattern.
Soundboard bracing: Either lutz/kermodie or Adirondack/red spruce.
Neck: mahogany, walnut, maple or cherry, laminated or solid, Solid necks use a scarfed headstock and heel block, as this allows for a stronger construction and less waste. Choice of headstock backing laminate or hand carved volute. All necks use a 2-way adjustable truss rod with 2 carbon fiber reinforcing rods. All necks are user adjustable for setting the action, either from inside the box or outside.
Trim: hardwood bindings with striped purling on top, back, sides and neck. Headstock includes matching binding. Fretboards are always bound. Ebony, curly maple, curly eucalyptus, cocobolo, bloodwood, curly walnut, mahogany, and other woods are generally standard. Extra cost binding woods would be curly koa, snakewood, or various other exotics like some rosewoods or ziricote.
Headstock, rosette, tail end graft, pick guard: matching burled veneer, saturated and hardened with epoxy resin. Rosette includes hardwood inner ring around the soundhole, such as cherry, walnut or maple.
Nut and saddle: bone
Frets: Extra-hard "Evo" fretwire for longer life
Bridge: rosewood, ebony, padauk, hormigo
Fretboard: ebony, bloodwood, rosewood family
Tuners: Gotoh 510s in basic models, or Waverlys in basic models.
Interior: solid linings on most models, and laminated flying buttress neck block support
Case: Ameritage heavy-duty
Extra Cost Options:
Fancier grades of body woods, such as various rosewoods, curly koa, ziricote, or exceptional grades of walnut will add anywhere from $200 to $1500. Brazilian rosewood can add $1500 to $3000, if available. Master grade soundboards will add from $100 to $300. European and Adirondack spruce tops are available options.
Note about "Master" grade tonewoods: There are no standards for what qualifies as master grade, but almost always, it is visual appearance rather than acoustic qualities that elevate quality tonewoods from "AAA" grade to "master" status.
An order is placed by sending a deposit of $800. This will put you on the waiting list, and we will begin to discuss your dream guitar. Shortly before I am ready to begin construction, I request another payment, to bring the total paid up to ⅓ of the cost of the guitar. When the woodwork is nearing completion I will request another third, and then the balance is due at the time of shipping.
STANDARD FEATURES:
Body wood: I include many types of reasonably priced tonewoods in the standard pricing. In addition to East Indian Rosewood and mahogany, you also have a choice of some nice grades of cocobolo, walnut, koa, bubinga, padauk, higuerilla and others, depending on what I have in stock. Some people spend a tremendous amount of time trying to decide which tonewoods to order. In my opinion it is easiest to separate the body woods into 3 groups, though keep in mind that the construction of the guitar has a bigger affect on the acoustics than the wood choice:
• Very resonant - (lots of overtones, good sustain, more complex note quality) - includes most rosewoods, macassar ebony, bloodwood, padauk, hormigo
• Less resonant - (fewer overtones, less sustain with slightly crisper notes) - mahogany, higuerilla, black walnut, koa
• Least resonant (least overtones, least sustain) - claro walnut, maple, myrtle
Soundboard: My standard tonewood is lutz/kermodie spruce, a natural hybrid from British Columbia, that I believe to be one of the best top woods in the world. Western Red cedar or redwood are also available as standard. Doubletops usually have the top and/or bottom skin made from spruce or cedar, with cedar and nomex honeycomb in the core. I select for acoustic quality first and appearance second, meaning that I often use "interesting" wood with streaks of color or wavering grain. You are free to specify a preference for a more traditional "clean" grain pattern.
Soundboard bracing: Either lutz/kermodie or Adirondack/red spruce.
Neck: mahogany, walnut, maple or cherry, laminated or solid, Solid necks use a scarfed headstock and heel block, as this allows for a stronger construction and less waste. Choice of headstock backing laminate or hand carved volute. All necks use a 2-way adjustable truss rod with 2 carbon fiber reinforcing rods. All necks are user adjustable for setting the action, either from inside the box or outside.
Trim: hardwood bindings with striped purling on top, back, sides and neck. Headstock includes matching binding. Fretboards are always bound. Ebony, curly maple, curly eucalyptus, cocobolo, bloodwood, curly walnut, mahogany, and other woods are generally standard. Extra cost binding woods would be curly koa, snakewood, or various other exotics like some rosewoods or ziricote.
Headstock, rosette, tail end graft, pick guard: matching burled veneer, saturated and hardened with epoxy resin. Rosette includes hardwood inner ring around the soundhole, such as cherry, walnut or maple.
Nut and saddle: bone
Frets: Extra-hard "Evo" fretwire for longer life
Bridge: rosewood, ebony, padauk, hormigo
Fretboard: ebony, bloodwood, rosewood family
Tuners: Gotoh 510s in basic models, or Waverlys in basic models.
Interior: solid linings on most models, and laminated flying buttress neck block support
Case: Ameritage heavy-duty
Extra Cost Options:
Fancier grades of body woods, such as various rosewoods, curly koa, ziricote, or exceptional grades of walnut will add anywhere from $200 to $1500. Brazilian rosewood can add $1500 to $3000, if available. Master grade soundboards will add from $100 to $300. European and Adirondack spruce tops are available options.
Note about "Master" grade tonewoods: There are no standards for what qualifies as master grade, but almost always, it is visual appearance rather than acoustic qualities that elevate quality tonewoods from "AAA" grade to "master" status.
There are endless options possible - here are some of the main choices:
